EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK APRIL-MAY 2011

Thamel district Kathmandu

We arrived in Kathmandu late afternoon on 22^nd April after a 20 hour flight from South Africa with a flight change in Doha.  We were met by our tour operator’s representative and were soon on our way to our hotel or guest house.


Kathmandu  is hopelessly overcrowded with congested roads, chaotic traffic, pedestrians vying for space with buses taxies, trucks, scooters, motor cycles - all with horns constantly being sounded, together with rickshaws and the odd cow blithely wandering the streets - perceived as sacred to the Hindu culture. Yet despite this mayhem a sense of tolerance pervades and amazingly there are very few accidents.

Our guest house was adequate but darkened as the city is subjected to power shortages so power cuts are imposed for 6-8 hours per day.

Temple

The following day we were up early to visit the “Monkey Temple” or Swayambhu Stupa situated on top of a hill overlooking the city a good 40 minutes walk away.  Clearly refuse removal is virtually non existent as garbage was everywhere, even choking the rivers and most vacant plots.   We climbed the many steps to the terrace surrounding the temple  and walked around this hill top sanctuary with its many sacred spots and the devout praying in every secluded spot.  


What was interesting was a 30-40 man choir singing away in a most beautiful manner.  It seems that anyone could join in as the members were constantly being replaced.

Street scene Kathmandu

Later that morning we were subjected to a kit inspection by our tour operator to ensure we were properly equipped for the task ahead.  They were thorough and anything missing was added to the list of items to be hired.  Then we were introduced to Lukpa - our ‘Sirdar” or chief Sherpa Guide.  He briefed us on what lay ahead then took us off to the hire shop to make good any kit or equipment shortcomings, luckily for me I passed muster and only needed to hire a few technical items I had been unable to acquire in South Africa.

The hire shop

That evening Lukpa introduced us to his assistant, Chong Ba, and together they took us out to supper at a nearby restaurant where they assisted us in choosing typical Nepalese dishes amongst which were momos, a type of mince filled boiled dumpling.

Lukla to Phakding [24 Apr]

Loading our aircraft at Kathmandu Airport

Next morning we were called at 0400 to be ready at the airport by 0630 to catch the first flight to Lukla, the gateway to the Himalayas (pronounced Him-aah-lia by the locals and because it is a place, always in the singular).  Much to our amusement a clearly embarrassed Amanda with  Gary in tow arrived three minutes at the bus.

View from Lukla

The domestic terminal was still closed when we arrived but we staked our position in the already growing queue.  Four local companies fly in and out of Lukla but despite having a ticket it’s a case of first come first served for each.   We were lucky as we made it onto the first SITA Airways flight out .

Looking up the Khumbu Valley

The August 2010 edition of the Global Aviator describes Lukla as the most dangerous airport in the world.   This is probably not an over-exaggeration.   The building of an airport at Lukla was instigated by Sir Edmund Hillary and construction began in 1984.  The runway is only 527 meters long, rises at a 12º gradient with the North Eastern end terminating at a sheer rock wall while the South Western end has a 700m drop off into the ravine below.  There are no landing aids whatsoever. During the final approach, the pilot needs to clear a mountain ridge, bank left and descend steeply to line up and touch down with both engines going hard astern.  Exhilarating stuff!

On leaving the aircraft I was immediately over-awed by the majestic mountain peak to the East which towers over the town, but was simultaneously chilled by the cold early morning breeze.  The aircraft - a twin turboprop 10 seater Dornier 228 - was quickly unloaded, reloaded and was on its way back to Kathmandu in a matter of minutes. Meanwhile, we met our porters, organised their loads and were on our way to a welcome breakfast in one of the many typical tea houses.

After a hearty meal, our expedition started out in earnest.  As Lukla is sited half way up the mountain, our first taste of Himalayan hiking was actually downhill as our first night’s stop- the quaintly named village of Phakding, is situated on the banks of the river at the bottom of the gorge.  On the way down we stopped for a substantial lunch cooked by our kitchen team headed up by Dawa who proved to be a culinary maestro.   After a break we were on our way again and reached Phakding by mid-afternoon.   Our tents were soon erected and we had a chance to organise ourselves for the next eighteen days of camping lifestyle. 

 Phakding to Namche Bazar [25-26 Apr]

One of the many small villages we passed through

Donkeys are used at the lower altitudes

Day two of our trek was along the banks of the river, very beautiful with many trees and orchards; the weather was quite warm but by mid-morning the sky had become overcast.   The ever-present and awesome mountains soared above us on either side of the valley.  The sheer visual power of their lofty domination is difficult to describe, yet in Himalayan terms these were but minor peaks.  












We criss-crossed the river several times using the suspension bridges slung between the sides of the ravine.   In earlier times there were only flimsy wood and rope bridges that often got destroyed by the monsoon floods.  We stopped frequently for “breathers,” tea and lunch - all part of the altitude acclimatisation process as we were already over 2500m and beginning to feel it!. 

We crossed many such suspension bridges

Later that afternoon, we rounded a bend in the valley and saw the suspension bridge which marks the start of the 500m climb up to Namche Bazar situated in a shallow bowl high over the valley below.  About three exhausting hours later we reached Namche and made our way to our campsite on a terrace next to a tea house.  




At 3340m this was the highest I had ever climbed in my life and with the relative Oxygen being only 65% of that at sea-level, I felt it!

Our Tea house was situated at the top of the village so we had a superb view. To enjoy a shower, we had to climb back down to a hotel which wouldn’t have been an issue at sea-level but at altitude was a struggle.

Our itinerary called for a rest day to facilitate our acclimatisation process, so the next day Helen, Jeannette, Carol and I walked up to the famous Everest View Hotel perched on top of the peak behind Namche. On our way up we were buzzed by a light aircraft which flew less than 30 feet overhead. We soon found out that it was landing at a dirt airstrip especially built for the hotel. 

Unfortunately, the view up the Khumbu Valley was hazy and the mountain peaks swaddled in cloud.  But we were finally rewarded with a long range view of the famous peaks of Nupse and Lhotse and a glimpse of Everest shyly hiding behind its cloudy veil.  To be honest, at a distance it looked quite insignificant next to its two neighbours Nupse and Lhotse.   We then had tea on the hotel terrace basking in the thin sunlight before starting back down to our campsite and a good afternoon sleep. We all found that a seemingly easy walk was a lot more tiring than we would normally expect.

Later that afternoon we visited the Sherpa Museum started by Sir Edmund Hillary, who over time did so much to help these folk.

Namche Bazar 

Run way above Namche Bazar one of the highest in the World

Typical Nepalese cooking utensils

Inside the museum

Namche Bazar to Deboche [27 Apr]

The next day was crystal clear with a brilliant blue sky and our route was along a narrow undulating path hewn high up the western side of the valley overlooking the Imja Khola river which is formed by the melt waters of the Khumbu glacier, with a good view up the valley carved out by the mighty Kumbu glacier in earlier times. We passed a Chorten [Tibetan term for Stupa a Buddhist prayer mound containing relics), being renovated by local villagers and then over a section of the path being painstakingly re-paved by a local who simply asked for a small donation – typical of the initiative and enterprise in this desperately poor region. 

After a few hours hiking, we could see the hill-top monastery of Thyangeboche in the distance albeit on the other side of the ravine, which meant going down a steep descent to the river crossing and an even more demanding 400m climb up the other side to the monastery.  Here we stopped for a look around and attended the monk’s 1500 call to prayer at which they sat on a raised dais and performed a long monotonous chant following the lead of their lama.  This monastery was built in 1916, destroyed by an earthquake in 1934, rebuilt only to be burned down in 1989 and then subsequently rebuilt with international aid. It is the largest Gompa [Buddhist prayer hall often a monastery as well] in the Khumbu region from France.

The village of Tengboche was the home of Tenzing Norgay who together with Sir Edmund Hillary were the first to climb Everest.

5. Deboche to Pheriche [28-29 Apr]

Shortly after leaving Deboche, we climbed up to the village of Pangboche where we had an audience with Lama Geshe who had fled from Tibet during the Chinese invasion and settled there.  During an involved ceremony, he blessed our expedition and presented each of us with a red chord which he placed around our necks and then bumped foreheads.  Later, he also gave us each a silk scarf which is the traditional gift given to departing friends.

Leaving Pangboche, it was a long hard arduous climb over a pass to the bleak windswept village of Pheriche. We were now above the tree line and the vegetation was limited to small scrub. The valley was desolate, stony and uninviting, yet we passed several small holdings where the Yak herders bring their herds to graze in summer.

Pheriche is one of the bases for the Himalayan Rescue Association, a voluntary non-profit association that provides emergency medical aid to trekkers and climbers.  Each afternoon at 1500 they provide a free lecture on Acute Mountain Sickness AMS which is of great value the many trekkers and climbers passing through.   For tourists the fee for a medical consultation is $50 but for the locals it is only 5 rupees.   Despite their adaptation to high altitude living we learnt that the Sherpas are also prone to AMS if the ascend too fast. 

Add caption

AMS is the result of the reduction in oxygen brought about by the reduced atmospheric pressure at altitude. Although the percentage of Oxygen remains constant the reduction in density with an increase in altitude means there are simply less Oxygen molecules available.  The bodies natural reaction to reduction in oxygen is to breathe more rapidly and deeply.  However this increases the carbon dioxide in the blood and making it more alkaline. Within a day or two the kidneys adapt and restore the Ph balance by excreting the excess alkali, provided an adequate amount of liquids are drunk.   Ignore  the symptoms and AMS can lead to an accumulation of water on the brain High Altitude Cerebral Oedema [HACE] or in the lungs High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema [HAPE] either of which if left untreated can and often do lead to death.  

Fortunately AMS is preventable by ascending slowly and taking sufficient rest days to acclimatise.    Unfortunately some over enthusiastic people ignore the signs and push on usually to be emergency evacuated by helicopter at great expense   [USD 6000-12000]. 
We spend two days here acclimatising by enjoying the tea house common room and a good book.   The nights were sub-zero and we had snow and ice on our tents in the morning. Fortunately despite their flimsy looks the tents are double sided which provides good insulation so we could sleep soundly in our down sleeping bags.

6.  Pheriche to Loboche [30 Apr]

On Saturday 30 May we started out in a bright cold morning with a chilling wind blowing down the valley as we made our way up the valley past the yak herder’s huts to the pass at 4500m.  Despite the rest-day most of us found the going hard due to the lack of Oxygen, now less than 60% of that found at sea-level and frequent stops were a must but we eventually got into the rhythm of the very slow walking required. 

We passed the site where many memorial cairns had been erected to honour those who had died in the mountains.  A sad gloomy spot where it’s not hard to imagine the spirits of the lost abide and the number bring home that climbing the Himalayan peaks is an inherently dangerous pastime. 

Later that morning it became overcast and began to snow so our lunch on a sheltered terrace was soon sprinkled white.  Finally after a long hard day though a barren landscape we saw Lobuche ahead and none too soon.

7. Lobuche to Everest Base Camp and Gorak Shep [1-2 May]

To day was a very long day as we started early to trek from Lobuche to Everest Base Camp and then  return to Gorak Shep.    The going was reasonable but as we were now well above the treeline the terrain was bleak windswept rock, scree and morrain.  We clambered over loose rocks and boulders with only occasional small stone beacons to mark the route.  We had to be particularly careful with our footwork as a slip or false step could easily lead to a sprained ankle or worse.  Yet we met several Yak trains that simply doggedly plodded along with an unerring instinct to put their hooves in the right place.   I battled to find good footing for two feet which I could clearly see yet Yak does it effortlessly for four which it cannot see!

First sight of EBC

Finally we crested a ridge and saw EBC ahead- a ragged collection of tents pitched amongst the rocks perched on whatever flattish piece of ground they could find next to the mighty Khumbu Glacier which creaked and groaned its way downhill.  After some time walking around tent stays and other 
hazards we found our way to our trekking company’s site were in the mess tent we met an Everest Summit  group which had just come down from high camp that morning.  They were Dan Mazur - UK/US (Leader); Ms. Squash Falconer – UK; Ms. Paula Leonard – US; Stewart Edge – UK and Mitch Lewis – US.  


In addition a second team who will climb Lhotse consisted of Gavin Vickers - Australia (Leader) and  Alex Holt – UK.  Dan Mazur is also the manager of SummitClimb/SummitTrek the company which organised our expedition.

Inside the Summit Climb Mess Tent with the British Everest Expedition

We spent a couple of hours with them listening to their stories.  We learnt that it is the aim of the Brit “Squash” Falconer to become the first woman in the world to solo pilot a paraglider from the top of Mt Everest. [Subsequently we learnt that they did successfully summit Everest but that the weather was too bad for flying so she will try again later in May]. 

After that highly interesting afternoon at base camp our return trek to Gorak Shep was a long cold slog into the teeth of a bitter chill wind with frequent snow flurries. 

Leaving EBC in the wind and snow

The plan for our second day at Gorak Shep was a pre-dawn start to climb a nearby ridge called Kalar Patar which offers stunning views of Everest and the surrounding mountains.  However I was clear that I was suffering from high attitude sickness as I had a splitting headache and felt dizzy so I turned back, took a Diamox and made myself at home in my warm sleeping bag.  Later Carol turned back as well as she found it just too hard going.  Luckily both Helen and Jeannette made it to the top and brought back some stunning photos.  

8. Gorak Shep to Chhukung via Dingboche [3 May]

Pheriche pass with Ama Dablam  in background right

looking down on Dingboche

After a good breakfast we left this desolate outpost and made our way down the valley and along the ridge above Pheriche to the village of Dingboche situated at the convergence of the two glaciers where we stopped for our lunch break.   By now the temperature had dropped and the afternoon hike up to Chhukung was an uninspiring scrabble uphill over loose rock and stone in a bleak moonscape like valley.   We reached Chhukung by 1530 ready for a hot cup of tea.   We were shortly joined by Gary, Amanda and Helen who had elected to hike over the Pokalde pass which was a more direct route but included a steep climb.

Ama Dablam

Chhuking [4-7 May]

We decided to take a rest day at Chukking as our guide Lukpa was suffering from a bad cold and he was needed for the upcoming Island Peak climb.  I was also feeling the effects of the altitude and decided that I had neither the strength nor the endurance to tackle Island Peak which would entail an 18hr day with a 300m climb up an 80º ice wall.  Not only would I be risking myself but would also jeopardise the team’s chances of success.   Carol came to the same decision for the same reasons.  So we moved into the tea house as our tents would be needed for the Island Peak base camp.

Our cheerful porters

The following day Lukpa was feeling a lot better so we set out for the base camp which would be sited at the foot of Island Peak.  The plan being that Carol and I would return to Chhukung later that afternoon.  However that was not to be as once we started climbing up the valley my headache returned with a vengeance so heeding the advice of the Doctor at Pheriche I turned back downhill to lose some altitude.  Lukpa detached one of the porters to accompany me and Carol decided she would return as well.

Luckily after Diamox and a good rest in the little wooden box that formed my tea-hose “room” I felt better.  The following day I took a stroll around the village and was adopted by a Yak calf which tried to follow me wherever I went. 

Chhuking Village

That evening an Australian woman came into the tea house full of excitement and keen to talk.  We learnt that she and her Canadian boyfriend had successfully climbed Island Peak that morning and then she could constrain herself no longer and let out that on the top he had proposed to her! 

By the Saturday morning I had recovered and felt strong again, clearly I simply needed more time to acclimatise  and as previously arranged one of the Sherpas came down from the base camp to guide the two of us a local peak called Chhukhung-Ri overlooking the village and from which we would get a clear view of Island Peak and the surrounding mountains.

This modest climb I took in my stride and found it relatively easy provided I took each step one at a time and slowly.  Carol came most of the way but was feeling the cold so decided to shelter behind a convenient rock to await our return. 

By evening we were a little concerned that we had not heard from the summit party so we set out to see if they needed help.  Fortunately we soon met the returning porters who informed us that all four had successfully summited and were now making their way back.  As night fell they came in sight and we soon learnt about their tough, daunting but ultimately successful climb. 

Inside the tea house at Chhuking

Chhukung to Lukla  [8-10 May]

Mission complete so now we just needed to get back to Lukla.  Seeing that we were going more or less downhill our plan was to fast foot it to Deboche where we had camped on the way up.  After a long day we arrived as night fell only to find that there was a Yak breeder’s convention of sorts on the go with sporting events and much merriment.  Never the less we set up camp, had a good supper and were soon asleep despite the cheerful crowd surrounding us.

Looking back from Tengboche for our last sight of Mnt.Everest 

The next day we retraced our path down to Namche Bazar with a final glimpse of Everest which for once was in full view from the Tengboche monastery grounds.  That evening a welcome shower at the same co-operative hotel in Namche and our last supper prepared by Dawa and his team.

The long descent down from Namche Bazar

Tuesday 10 May we made an early start on the steep descent out of Namche and the long walk along the river bank to Phakding and the final uphill haul into Lukla.   Here we were given rooms in a tea house and after supper we joined in a farewell party with our Sherpas.  An interesting custom is that we the clients decide on how much Tip we will give to them collectively and then they decide in a complex yet democratic manner how it will be shared out depending on the perceived contribution each has made to the success of the expedition.

We were roused early to be at the airport by 0600 and so said farewell to our Sherpas who would now need up to two days to return to their highland homes, ours being one of the last expeditions this spring season. 

Soon the scream of turbo-props in reverse thrust announced the arrival of our SITA Air Dornier and we were quickly bundled aboard and careening down the runway with just time for a final glimpse of the inscrutable Himalayan peaks before the inevitable haze blown up from the Indian sub-continent shrouded them from view.